Fremont always evokes for me memories of high school and stifling suburban boredom. Though things have since begun changing, back in my day, (heh) Fremont had little to offer a restless high schooler but sprawling track housing and hills. Maybe it’s an age thing, but with time I began finding diamonds in the rough. Small cafes, restaurants, and dives that give Fremont more character than I had initially given it credit for. For one, Fremont’s large Indian population brings with it some damn good Indian food. And among the pack, Pakwan has quickly become my place of choice for warm, hand-made naan and spicy curry. Ho, yes.

At least on the outside, Pakwan has a pretty curious feel going for it. The exxagerated sloping roof would have you expecting an alpine place serving bratwurst and kraut. But instead you find some solid naan and curry. The interior isn’t much to talk about, yellow paint and photos of India, a singular podium where you place your order. A semi-open kitchen allows you to look in on where the action happens, always a big plus in my book. Watch the cooking, soak in the aromas, and listen to the patting of fresh dough as the cooks make hand-made naan in the roaring ovens. Quite a treat.

In my mind, curry is inseperable from fresh naan. A little crispy, a little soft, light and airy, and slightly steaming as you bite into it, naan does a lot to provide a crispy texture contrast to gravyish curry, while also balancing out it’s spiciness. Not to mention it’s always fun to put down the knife and fork and eat with your hands. Rip that flatbread into conveniently shaped pieces to dip, scoop, wrap, (and spill) your curry. Pakwan hasn’t dissapointed with this staple, and they offer various flavors and stuffings for naan, including garlic naan, ground beef, onion, and potato.

First up, chicken tikka masala, a dish I consistently order at all the Indian restaurants I go to. Interestingly enough, tikka masala is not a traditional Indian dish, yet it is widely ordered and vastly popular. Much like orange chicken, tikka masala is a westernized version of an authentic dish, tracing it’s roots back to the UK, and it’s large Indian immigrant population. British tastes for gravy are said to have accounted for the thick, creamy consistency of the curry. Globally speaking, it’s widely regarded that the best Indian food outside of India can be found in Britain, (Apparently Kanye put in $3900 for overseas take-out) so they must have done something right. Anyway, Pakwan’s tikka masala is pretty solid. A slightly acidic, sour taste, likely from yogurt and/or tomatoes in the sauce is mellowed out by the cream in the gravy itself. So the end effect is somewhat tangy, yet not overwhelmingly so. And of course, the nice thickness of the curry is perfect with the naan. The chicken has been a hit-or-miss sort of thing, tending towards a bit dry and overcooked sometimes.

Next is the achar gosht, a roasted pepper lamb curry, along with a mixed vegetable curry. I’ve always been kinda partial to lamb…while others have told me it tastes like wet socks. Nonetheless, the achar gosht was pleasantly spicy and a bit hot, while the mixed vegetable curry tasted of mostly spinach more than anything else. The curries at Pakwan seem to be a bit on the heavier, greasier side compared to other places I’ve been to. Both were solid, but neither was particularly amazing.

For some reason or another, the tandoori entrees at Pakwan have never really hit the mark for me. The spice is right, but the meat almost always seems to be dry and overcooked. Such was the case for our tandoori lamb chops. All the good flavor seems lost if you find yourself having to gnaw at your meat rather than chew it. Hopefully I’m wrong, and I just haven’t ordered the right dish yet.

For all its tendency towards overcooked meat, Pakwan still has me coming back for solid Indian/Pakistani food. And none of the menu items are significantly expensive, so you can walk away pretty full for not too much cash. While I’m willing to bet there may be better Indian food in Fremont, (Shalimar comes to mind) Pakwan provides an easy, accessible, and pretty solid option for sampling Indian cuisine. Give it a shot.

Pakwan
41068 Fremont Blvd.
Fremont, CA 94358
(510) 226-6234
Make sure to get some of the unlimited milk tea, it makes for a nice complement to all the spice.